Hungry ghosts, mooncakes and lanterns in Singapore

The Chinese culture brings amazing things to daily life in Singapore. Early in the morning, Chinese aunties and uncles (terms of endearment for any senior citizen) are in their local parks practising tai chi or exercising using the all-weather fitness machines that are like brightly coloured playground equipment. Generally speaking, old Chinese people seem a lot fitter than old people in New Zealand!


Three quarters of Singapore's population is of Chinese descent. Although a multi-cultural nation, Mandarin can be heard in abundance in the shops and food centres.

Last month (August) saw the Chinese honouring the dead with the Hungry Ghosts Festival.  Hundreds of incense sticks suddenly appeared on the roadside one morning. Alongside the smouldering sticks were cakes and food offerings. Occasionally we'd pass a group of people standing around a large trash can burning paper money or paper effigys of house or other material possessions. With these offerings the Chinese people keep the hungry ghosts happy and appeased and hopefully thwart their plans of revenge.

The festival lasts for a month and the roadsides look a right mess during that time. With true Singaporean efficiency though, one morning I spotted one of the hidden heroes of the neighbourhoods. He wore brightly coloured overalls armed with a large black rubbish bag in one hand and a long pair of tongs in the other. The tongs were perfect for picking up dead incense sticks, rain sodden cakes and strewn paper money. Clearly a man on official business.

And now, September, the mid-autumn festival is in full swing. This is a time of family togetherness under the light of the full moon. It is celebrated with lanterns and mooncakes and is sometimes referred to as the lantern festival or mooncake festival. Lanterns are self-explanatory and festoon Chinatown (downtown) and the Chinese Gardens (Jurong East) during these two weeks, making them ideal evening destinations.
Lanterns on Pagoda St, Chinatown
Lantern festival, Chinese Gardens
But mooncakes? These are over-priced, traditional delicacies that family and friends give to each other because of tradition, not because they are particularly delicious. And that's not just my opinion. I love talking with my taxi drivers and have been conducting a highly scientific survey of my Chinese taxi uncles recently. The majority quite clearly do not like mooncakes, yet they will give and receive them, because that's just what you do. A bit like fruitcake at Christmas time in my family circles... it just wouldn't be tradition without fruitcake left overs.
Mooncakes - these ones are filled with plain lotus seed paste
Mooncakes are traditionally enjoyed (or ignored) when the moon is brightest (this year, 12 Sept 2011) with the family gathered together to appreciate the moonlight. You'd be correct if you guessed that the festival also has links to harvest time. What you may not know is that mooncakes were once supposedly used in espionage and bought about the downfall of an empire. It's a great story, worth a quick read.

The Chinese are renowned for their industrious natures and it comes through in all they do - from their daily exercise to their cultural observances. And the best is still to come. We haven't been here long enough yet to witness the biggest event of the Chinese calendar - Chinese New Year. According to one taxi driver, it is the only day of the year that is a true public holiday, all the shopping malls are closed. Crikey. For the shops to stay shut, it must be one doozy of a celebration!

Strawberry and mango snow ice at
Mei Heong Yuen Dessert on Temple Street, Chinatown.
Worth a stop on those warm lantern viewing nights. 

Popular posts from this blog

Unconventional Choices Can Pay Off

Feb 2012 - Border Crossings

From trailing spouse to working girl